“Your kid does not grow over the years …” Part II. Assembly of the squares of the cut pieces
Nov 10

monochrome stars

Until now, we are engaged in a strange affair. We had sewed the cut squares, and then cut the resulting block. Today, we slightly modify the order of actions. We cut the fabric into squares, then we cut these squares, and only then, we sew the cut parts. To ensure that the resulting components have a definite meaning, we cut the squares from different fabrics and sew together into one block parts of each of them.

Last time I promised to show how to assembly a block of the first level. Its creation is based on those actions that are described just above. Therefore, we will begin from it.

1. First of all I show you a few blocks of other levels, which along with other present are, and that is a new block for us. It is not difficult to guess what kind of block is about. We will call it conventionally “ray” because of its appearance.

2. To sew a block of two types of fabric you need to make two equal-sized squares of different fabrics. As a result, you get 2 blocks “ray”, which will be negatives of each other.
Each square is cut from the top to the midpoints of the sides, forming the opposite corner. I want to note – the middle of the parties does not necessarily point all the “rays”. I chose it absolutely arbitrary. But in the future, if you need more than two such blocks, it is necessary to adhere to the selected point.
Your square will be divided into 3 parts as a result of cutting: the center, forming a beam itself, and 2-angled triangles.


3. Fold from the cut squares the same shapes, but varying between the color at the edges.

4. Put on the central part the right triangle, combining the top, but the corner detail should push forward to the centre approximately 0.5 cm (for proper clearance allowance on top). Then connect a straight stitch detail.

5. Ironing and revealing the work-pieces we get what we see in the picture. The seam allowances should be directed to the center. The central part extends slightly toward the side, but let it not bother you. This is normal :)

6. The remainder of the left triangle sew similar, and as a result, after ironing and cutting serving the central part, we obtain the desired block “ray”. Its size is b = a + 1.5, where a – block size in finished form.

7. If you want to make a block, in which the structure is “ray”, then we must know that its size a = c – 4,  in other words, you need to cut the original square into 4 cm longer than the multilevel cell block, which will be filled with the block “ray”.
I promised to assembly a compound block on the block “ray”, but I think it is not difficult and you can do it yourself.

The performance of the block “ray” is a special case of the technology with which we are now acquainted. As I have said, it can be cut arbitrarily, but each square is similar. Also you can take more tissue types and therefore get more identical blocks, which will differ only in color. To fast the process you should fold the squares into a neat pile. But we should not do it more than 4 pieces in a pile, to avoid potential biases that lead to some visual distortion figure.
We cut our original square in two lines, but it’s not a dogma. Lines can be more, but we must remember that each line reduces the final size of the block that you are trying to get as a result. Looking ahead I will say that it is possible to avoid such losses, but more about it a little later.
If the initial squares are cut randomly, as it is in your head, then as a result you can get a block crazy. But if you do the cuts in a certain developed and thought scheme, you can get a block with a concrete, meaningful look.

How to perform this star you can see on the site at the address given on the photo.
I want to add from my own that if you choose less mottled fabrics, then the star will become more pronounced, but if in a single product you try to collect the stars of different sizes, you can get something similar to what we see on the cover photo.
Now it’s time to talk about how to create the final block without reducing the size of the original squares. If you cut parts connect to each other back to back, and not retreating to the amount of allowance, the square size is reduced. But this connection seems is very unaesthetic. In order to hide the open sections, we use borders (bake). The borders on straight sections can be carved out on duck or on shared. You can use the slash borders, sometimes it is used for this tape, which can be monochromatic or patterned, it is on your desire. It is important to remember that if you sew with allowances of 0.75 cm, the width of the tape should be 1.5 cm. The tape you sew impose on the item directly on its obversed side. If you are trying to hide the border connection, then you should cut a strip of 3 cm at the same width allowance. In this case it remains the docked basic details, but they will be sewn to the allowance borders. The border in finished form on the front side would also be equal to 1.5 cm. Needless to say, visually the block changes a few. You can see it for yourself at the proposed photo. This connection technique reminds us the technique “stained glass”. There also used oblique border, but the lines that are connected with it usually have some curvature. The technique “stained glass”, we will use not soon, but we should now try to learn a similar technique of assembling a block.

Another option of cutting a square on the straight lines and, as I said – one of many. Next time we will continue to get acquainted with the common types of such equipment, which gives interesting results.

That is all for today. See you!


quilt, quilt technique, patchwork

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